Crafting Luxury (Book)

Craftsmanship, Manufacture, Technology and the Retail Environment

A fresh approach to contemporary views of luxury focusing on extensive academic research and industry insights, pushing the boundaries by using luxury as a catalyst for innovative research in a variety of domains spanning design, art, craftsmanship, technology, retail, architecture and cultural and social studies. 12 col. illus.

 

Edition

The idea of luxury has secured a place in contemporary western culture, and the term is now part of common parlance in both established and emerging economies. This book explores the many issues and debates surrounding the idea of luxury. 

This new research addresses contentious issues surrounding perceptions of luxury, its relationship to contemporary branding as created by the marketers, and the impact this has on the consumer and their purchasing habits.

Crafting Luxury considers work within the field of luxury and luxury brands, encompassing established companies with a long heritage: from conglomerates and small independents to 'new' luxury and emerging models with innovative practices. It examines the industry structures with respect to production, as well as the hierarchies that exist, and the impact these have on both internal and external perceptions of luxury, from the makers to the sellers and consumers alike. Attention is also given to the working structures of the ateliers, production facilities, origin of materials, manufacture and the impact of technology on consumption, the retail environment and sales, all providing a true insider’s view of this complex world.

The authors – a designer of product and jewellery, a brand strategist and a fashion designer, an architect, and a sociologist and specialist in business management – are practitioners and academics. Their approach to dissecting the complex world of luxury brings distinct viewpoints to the debate, offering different perspectives, thoughts and interpretations of luxury.

Crafting Luxury will appeal to academics and educators, industry specialists and anyone interested in luxury as a concept. It will appeal to those in a variety of academic and industry disciplines: art history, history, social sciences and humanities with an interest in luxury, fashion studies, design, business, cultural studies and textiles. It will also be valuable to students and researchers in social sciences, humanities, business, design, branding, consumption, retail, architecture, cultural studies, fashion studies and textiles.

May also appeal to industry practitioners in retail, design, technology, marketing, the supply chain and manufacture, as well as design professions including architecture, fashion and interior design.

Mark Bloomfield is a digital craftsman and artist based at London's iconic Oxo Tower. He is visiting professor of design, innovation and technology in the School of Creative Arts at the University of Hertfordshire. Mark has designed for some of the most influential and prominent designers, including Asprey, and Vivienne Westwood. Additionally, he has worked in film and TV making jewellery for Titanic, Judge Dredd, Braveheart and Gentleman Jack. Mark creatively combines traditional craft techniques with advanced digital processes.

Shaun Borstrock is Associate Dean; Business, Innovation and Projects and is Head of the Digital Hack Lab, In Pursuit of Luxury and Creative Ideas in the School of Creative Arts at the University of Hertfordshire. He is interested in design-led innovation where design comes first – not as a service to fulfil a business strategy, but as a visionary path where design is considered to be an intrinsic part of decision making. Shaun’s research evaluates notions of luxury that seem far removed from today's world of excessive consumption.

Silvio Carta is an ARB and RIBA architect, fellow of the Royal Society of Arts and Head of Art and Design at the University of Hertfordshire, where he is also Director of the Professional Doctorates in Fine Arts (DFA) and Design (DDES). His research focuses on computational design and spatial aspects of design. Silvio is head of the editorial board of Seoul-based C3 Magazine, editor of AMPS Architecture Media Politics and Society (UCL Press) and the author of Big Data, Code and the Discrete City (Routledge 2019) and Machine Learning and the City Reader (Wiley 2022).

Veronica Manlow is an associate professor at Brooklyn College's Murray Koppelman School of Business in the Business Management Department and the Academic Director of the Blackstone LaunchPad at Brooklyn College, a programme focused on entrepreneurship. She is one of the directors of the In Pursuit of Luxury (IPOL) professional association and co-editor of the IPOL journal Luxury Studies.

 

 

Preface: The Hand of the Maker ............................................................ vii

 

1 The Luxury Journey of Discovery ................................................... 1

2 The Luxury Domain ......................................................................... 13

3 Contemporary Notions of Luxury .................................................27

4 Craft and Design ............................................................ ........43

5 Cultural Capital, Work and Production ........................................67

6 Social Responsibility, Eco-Design and the Circular Economy ..........95

7 Decoding Luxury .......................................................... ....... 113

8 Luxury and the Retail Environment ..........................................143

9 Industry Perspectives and the Future of Luxury .........................167

10 Final Thoughts ...................................................... .............183

 

Notes .....................................................................................189

References ............................................................................. 191

Index .................................................................................... 209

'This multi-authored innovative study brings together the differing perspectives of academics and practitioners in an analysis that is not only readable, informative and up-to-date but which also packs a powerful punch. It will excite anyone with an interest in luxury whether as a producer, consumer or critic.'

Christopher J. Berry, University of Glasgow

'An important contribution to the study of material culture, Crafting Luxury brings to us a range of perspectives that collectively deconstruct the premises - and promises - of what luxury means today. With candour, insight and deep criticality, the book collectively helps us interrogate our assumptions about worth and meaning, acquisition and innovation, and sustainable practices for a better tomorrow.'

Jessica Helfand, designer, author and educator

'In Crafting Luxury, Shaun, Mark, Silvio and Veronica do a wonderful job of getting to the heart of what makes for the experience on luxury and what makes something unusual enough to earn that title. This really well put-together book is the one to read if you want to understand the phenomenon of 'luxury'.'

Theo Fennell, jeweller

'Taking this journey through the history of luxury becomes easy to understand due to the manner in which this book is written. The words are simple and explicit so the reader can follow with ease and understand the great achievements of the masters and founders of the luxury brands, from the smaller firm to the most well-known establishments which are part of conglomerates.

In reading though the book one can travel the road of luxury and feel a part of it, a travelogue of invention in a space formally owned by the rich and “haves”, not the “have nots”. Now it’s in the purview of all of us, how wonderful. [...] This book is well-written and I recommend it for all sorts of business, management and social science classes as well as to anyone who is just looking for a serious and yet fun reading of an important business and cultural topic.'

Norman Schwartz, Goodreads
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